Krazy Krakow and Zakopane

I am absolutely knackered. Decided that since it's been a while since I've done any serious exercise I would race up and down a mountain as fast as possible. Starting from about 900m altitude it took just under 2 hours to climb to 2185m (was determined to get above 2000m for the first time in ages). Using my last ounces of energy to climb over false peak after false peak I finally made it to the top. Much like other altitude climbs the scenery turns to a barren rocky landscape from about 1700m and above. And like every other mountain climbing experience, getting to the top is the sole focus, until you reach the top and realise that an even more painful and usually quite tedious descent awaits. This was no exception. Climbing nearly 1300m in 2 hours meant the slope was fairly steep for most of the way and then dizzyingly steep for the last 45 minutes of lactic acid lung burning struggle. And my trusty boots, trusty only because they are old, not because they are any good, didn't fail to make mincemeat of my toes and tenderise the soles of my feet. So after a 2 hour descent, with legs shaking from the pounding coming back down, and ankles still cringing after the five or six very close calls (most of you will know my ankle experiences of the past), I lurched onto a minibus and was dropped off back in Zakopane with no idea where in the town I was - 10 minutes of aimless walking soon had me reorientated.

Zakopane is the town on the Polish side of the Vysoke Tatry (High Tatras). The Tatras are the most western edge of the Carpathian range that cuts down though and around Romania before finishing in Slovakia and Poland. They are also the highest and most breathtaking (apparently) stretch of the range. So I've finally got a good hike under my belt.

We only chanced upon Zakopane as no buses or trains were going to the Slovakian side of the Tatras from Krakow. A nice little break before we have a quick jaunt in Slovakia before heading onto the Czech Republic.

Our time in Krakow was characterised mainly by fellow backpackers who seemed to visit the place only to go out drinking every night, but I slept through all their early morning returns and romances, so that didn't bother me (but Heather was woken by them on most nights). We also went our seperate ways for a day - Heather on an Auschwitz tour and me on a bicycle tour of Krakow - both with their own story to tell about the persecution of the Krakow Jews (and indeed other European Jews and other ethnic minorities). My tour went through the former Ghetto which is not generally set up for tourists and the locals there are less than welcoming to foreigners - we did get to watch a classy group of guys and their girl settling a drug deal - always a pleasure. I considered doing the Auschwitz tour but decided that I would learn more by doing the Krakow and ghetto tour - and indeed I did.

Polish photos are up